I’m Actually Crafty :: Jewelry Frame
So folks, sometimes I really am crafty. Last week my wife had an idea for a jewelry picture frame that she saw online. She planned it out and I (the original crafta’) made that shit real. Boom. Here’s how you can make your own!
What you’ll need:
- picture frame
- piece of plywood to replace the back– you may not even need this
- upholstery fabric
- Super Spray 77, spray adhesive
- hardware (machine screws, eye hooks, flat and lockwashers, drawer pull, spacers and nuts.)
- Paint (we used custom color spray paint)
- Drill (2 bit sizes)
- Awl — for marking you holes before drilling
- Wire cutter with holes for cutting machine screws
- Pencil, framing square, scissors, sewing pin
Now I’m going to keep this pretty simple, because my time is limited homies, but here’s how it went down.
We started with a long Ikea white picture frame. Removed the glass and painted the frame. Mrs. Krafty actually got this totally cool custom spray paint to match our walls from www.myperfectcolor.com. This frame has some depth so that the picture sits about 3/4″ behind the front edge of the frame, but I think any frame will do. Mrs. Krafty just didn’t want her necklaces sticking out too far, so this one fit the bill. I wasn’t sure exactly how we were going to fasten the hardware and I thought the included masonite back might be too thin so we actually went to the hardware store and got a piece of 1/4″ plywood cut to replace the existing backer. In retrospect, we probably could have made it work with the masonite, but the plywood is nice for screwing in the eye hooks.
Ok, after the frame was painted and plywood cut to size (they did that for us at the store) it was time to figure out the hardware. I was really worried about screwing hooks into the board, because there wasn’t much material to really secure them, so eventually we came up with a cool system using a machine screw with 2 washers and a spacer on one side of the wood, and a washer, lock washer and nut on the other.
Here is the order:
screw :: flat washer :: spacer :: flat washer :: wood :: flat washer :: lock washer :: nut
I ordered the parts and Julie started designing the layout. She arranged all her bracelets, ear rings and necklaces on the plywood and got it just how she wanted. You can see from this picture that we bought a ‘cupped’ drawer pull and used it upside down to hold rings.
To the fabric store! So beware. You want nice thick fabric, but a lot of upholstery fabric has a bunch of embroidery junk on the back. DON’T GET THAT. You want some fabric that will lay nice and flat on the wood. We actually got 2 kinds and did a test. The one we chose was like a colored woven fabric, almost like a nice version of burlap.
We did a test of everything by laying the fabric on the wood, laying the frame over that, and then laying out all the jewelry based on Julie’s initial design. Then I took the awl, and gently through the fabric, i made little intents to mark where each item would go, removing the jewelry after each indent and pealing the fabric back and marking the divot with a pencil — I also noted if that was a screw eye (for earrings) or a screw/spacer assembly (bracelets and necklaces). After all the pieces were marked I went back with my square and lined up all the indents, making new ones in some cases, so that all of the hardware would line up, more or less.
Time to drill. I had a scrap wood to test drill, so that I didn’t make the holes too big. For screw eyes, you want the holes really small, just enough to get it started. For the machine screws you want them to go easily (but snugly) through the wood. I drilled it all out with my Dewalt 12v cordless. Easy. And then it was time to glue on the fabric.
Be sure to do this outside homies. It was pretty cold, so i used the garage, but I still stunk up my hallway. Spray both the wood and the fabric… let sit a couple of minutes until tacky and then, starting at the center, slowly lay down the fabric. Best if you have white gloves so you don’t smudge up anything (I didn’t). Use your scissors to trim the fabric to about 1/2″ all around the wood, and then wrap around to the back. I ended up taking some superglue to secure some stuff on that back that wasn’t sticking as well. Cut notches at the corners so it wraps nicely.
Now for the fun. Take a sewing pin and stick it through the hole in the back to find your hole through the fabric. Then take your awl and gently but firmly push through. Depending on your fabric, you may need to slice a tiny (*TINY*) little slit, but I didn’t. The awl opened the fabric right up. Best to test all this first. Then just attach the hardware. The only hiccup we had here was that the drawer pull had screws that were made for a 3/4″ drawer and I was only using a 1/4″ backer here, so I had to cut the bolts. I used one of those wire strippers that have holes for cutting machine screws — but the only one I had was metric, so mine were a bit sloppy, but it worked out fine. I held the bolt and the drawer pull up to the edge of my scrap plywood and basically took a guess at the length. Luckily it worked.
Once all the hardware was in, I put it into the frame and.. oh I also attached to #6 screws to the back of the frame to attach picture wire, because the original backer (which we got rid of) had a hook. So that’s how it’s done, homies. See, I’m actually crafty. Here are some blurry detail shots.
Here’s a list of parts from McMaster-Carr that I used for the machine screw assembly. Be sure to double check your backer thickness and frame clearance before ordering these exact parts from http://www.mcmaster.com.
10 pieces, Zinc-plated Steel Unthreaded Spacer, 3/16″ Od, 1/4″ Length, #4 Screw Size
1 pack, 18-8 Ss Truss Head Phillips Machine Screw, 4-40 Thread, 3/4″ Length
1 pack, Type 18-8 Stainless Steel Flat Washer, Number 4 Screw Size, 0.125″ Id, 0.312″ Od
1 pack, Type 18-8 Ss External-tooth Lock Washer, Number 4 Screw Size, 0.115″ Id, 0.260″ Od
1 pack, Low-strength Steel Hex Nut, Zinc Plated, 4-40 Thread Size, 1/4″ Wide, 3/32″ Ht